Sunday, February 13, 2005

Carnavale, Sicilian Style

Yes folks, sadly all of the carnavale fun and pranks have been swept away like the confetti dotting the streets in every town. There were big carnivals in Acireale, Misterbianco, Adrano, and Catania, but most towns had some little festivities going on as well. Due to rainy weather most of last week, we only made it to the celebration in Catania. Catania was actually celebrating its patron saint, Sant Agata. For 3 days there are processions around the city with the Vara, which is a 16 foot carriage laden with all kinds of treasures that have been given to Sant Agata over the years, as well as a 14th century bust of Sant Agata and her relics. Also included in the processions are the Cannalori, which are really tall wax candles surrounded by a heavy (up to 1500 lbs.) gilded candelabrum wooden structure decorated with statues depicting saints, angels, and scenes depicting the Sant Agata martyrdom. There are 11 all together, each one represented and carried by people from a different city guild, like fishmongers and butchers. We were there late Saturday night (Feb 5th--the day Sant Agata died) from about 12:30 am-4:30 am, but the city was very much alive and celebrating! We caught up to the procession and were smushed into the crowd of people walking along with Sant Agata's carriage. It is pulled by hundreds of people wearing a traditional white tunic, which represents the nightdresses that Catanians wore the night they welcomed the relics of Sant Agata back from Turkey. People come up to the carriage with burning long yellow candles and flowers to be placed onto the carriage to thank Sant Agata for granting their prayers and blessings. Many people walk along the procession carrying the burning candles representing that the saint has granted them the miracle they requested. This is a lifelong practice, and people carry different weighted candles (some up to 350 lbs, but usually about 85lbs) on their shoulders with the wax dripping all over their white or green tunics (white=men, green = women). It was a site to see, and clearly a very emotional and joyous time for Catanians. We tried to stay for the end of the procession when they have to carry Agata's carriage up a very steep street near the Piazza Duomo before putting her back into the church there, but it was getting too late and we were tired. Turns out that didn't happen until about 8:00 the next morning, so we will have to go back next year to see it.

Last night we were invited to another carnavale inspired event, a masquerade ball sponsored by the Fillipino-American group. It was at the Catania Golf Course with a DJ, and picture people--kind of like a prom for adults! It's always good to get out and meet new people all the time--that's what is so great about our life over here b/c we have that opportunity all the time!
http://www.press.sicilia.it/sant_agata_catania.cfm for pictures from the Sant Agata celebrations
http://www.cataniaperte.com/santagata/foto/foto_s_agata.htm for more pictures

http://www.sicily.navy.mil/cgi-bin/thesig_list.cgi for English story, click on Feb. 4th issue, scroll to p. 6

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